Thursday, January 22, 2009

Again, again!

The recipe:

2 c. WW flour
1 ¼ c. water
mixed together and let soak in the fridge overnight

1 c. WW flour
1 c. King Arthur white bread flour
¾ c. water (71ish degrees)
1 2/3 tsp. salt
1 1/3 tsp. yeast

So, obviously I changed the flour to be ¾ WW and ¼ white bread. Also, I microwaved the soaker until it was about 71 degrees, and added a half cup more water and a tiny bit more yeast. The amount of water seems exorbitant, but it might be necessary for the hydration of the wheat. Even after the first kneading, there’s a huge difference. The dough is more pliable (my shoulders don’t hurt quite so much) and the gluten looks happier already. I think it really likes being above room temperature.

This time, I put the bowl with the dough in the oven to rise, after I had let the oven warm up to about 150 degrees and then shut it off. It worked great! My mom brought to my attention that our kitchen is very drafty and can get randomly cold, which I don't think the dough liked much at all. So this time, it rose very well, in much less time than I expected (I thought it would take maybe 3 hours, but I think I shaped it after about 2). I tried a new shaping technique I had learned at work, but because the counter is so high for me, I wasn't able to be as gentle with it as I should have been. Then I put the loaves in their couches and put them in the oven.

They were looking really promising; a nice squishy bounce to the dough after just an hour. Then Mom took them out of the oven to cook dinner, which had the double effect of changing their temperature and keeping them from baking for another hour (dinner was delicious, though!). Though they looked really great right before I flipped them onto the peel, as soon as they were on a flat surface, they began to fall, and didn't rise much in the oven. So, though these loaves were distinctly less brick-like than the last batch, they were still pretty dense. I would speculate a few reasons for this:

1) Too-tight shaping
2) Too much yeast
3) A combination of too high a proofing temperature and too long a proofing time, leading the loaves to overproof and fall at a crucial moment.

So next time it'll be back to 1 1/4 tsp. yeast, as well as either a cooler proofing temperature or a shorter proofing time.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

The result...

Well, the 100% whole wheat was a disaster. Okay, not a disaster, per se, but really not what I was hoping for. Pros: it had a really nice, thick, crunchy crust, a soft crumb texture, and a nice flavor (enough salt! And WW tastes great). Cons: it felt like a brick. The loaves hardly rose at all, in or out of the oven, and I gave them almost 8 hours in a warm place. I don’t think I killed the yeast, because they were still rising a little bit before I finally got fed up and put them in the oven.

What I think I could do to change it is this:

1) Maybe try adding a little bit of white flour, or using WW bread flour rather than just the regular stuff.
2) Increase the proportion of water. I had to add about a third of a cup anyway, because the flour would just not incorporate. Ideally, I’d like to only go up to about 75% water (this means that the amount of the water in the mix is 75% of the weight of the flour), but with 100% WW, I realize I may need closer to 80%.
3) Suck it up and let it rise longer. What I really should have done, I think, is let the shaped loaves proof overnight. I was both impatient and afraid that they wouldn’t rise if I put them in the fridge, or would overproof if I left them out. But in retrospect, overproofing probably would have been better than what I got.
4) Increase the amount of yeast by a little bit.
5) Let the soaker warm up before I mix up the final dough. I think the fact that I started kneading when the total mix was only 62 or so degrees was not really helpful for yeast happiness.

At least I know that the soaking works wonders, and that the amount of salt is right.


On a happier note, a few days ago, my mom and I went to a commercial kitchen supply store, which was amazing. I felt like a kid in a candy store. My mom really wanted to buy a pizza stone, which I greatly appreciate, as I’ve been using it for bread to great effect. I wanted some French fry baskets to use as couches (pronounced “kooshes,” and used to help loaves keep their shape while proofing). We both got what we wanted, plus I picked up a dough blade for 3 bucks (!) and splurged on a canvas pastry bag, which I plan to use to make éclairs and cream puffs. I think I may have to break the rules of this blog to write about them. And then, while I was making preparations for baking my first loaves, I found a broken half of a cutting board my mom had lying around, and I’ve been using it as a peel (that thing you use to put bread or pizza into the oven directly onto a stone). It’s perfect! Which is great, because before this I was trying to slide a sheet of parchment with two unbaked loaves on it onto a 400-degree baking sheet in a 400-degree oven. Not the smartest thing I could have done. Bottom line: I love kitchen toys, and commercial kitchen supply stores. And I should wait at least a year before going in one again.

Monday, January 19, 2009

My first try

Well, okay, so that's a lie.  I can't really count the number of loaves of bread I've baked in my life, over a summer of working in food service and a semester baking 20 loaves a week in a food co-op and numerous home baking exploits.  However, I am a haphazard baker by nature, which sometimes presents me with pleasant surprises, but always is frustratingly inconsistent.  So, my new project is to bake a whole bunch on my own, and record my processes and results while messing with different variables.  Hopefully I'll end up with something I like consistently :-)

Previously, I've used the basic recipe from the Tassajara Bread Book.  The book is amazing, and has lots of great recipes as well as a beautiful poem about leftovers.  However, this basic bread recipe leaves something to be desired.  I've found it to be rather dense and wet, with a thin crust.  It also uses sweetener, which is fine, but is difficult when one wants to remain vegan, cane-free and cheap (yes, molasses is a viable option, but it colors and flavors the bread in a pretty intense way).  So, as the title of my blog states, I'll be reverting to using only four ingredients for a while - flour, water, salt and yeast.  I will vary the types of flour I use, the length of fermentation (resting and rising), the temperature ingredients are at, and to a small degree, the proportions of the ingredients.  So, without further ado...

My First Attempt at Long-Fermentation Bread

Well, I should preface this account with the statement that my first mistake here is measuring the ingredients by volume rather than weight.  I know, I know, I know...it's totally inaccurate and variable.  But I can't really afford a scale, so it'll have to do.  What I've been doing is calculating recipes by metric weight, and then converting them to US volume measurements using www.gourmetsleuth.com.  Not perfect, but it works in a pinch.  The recipe I used is as follows: 

500 g whole wheat flour (4 cups)
350 g water (1.5 cups)
10 g salt (1.3 tsp)
5 g yeast (1.25 tsp)

So, my second mistake was probably jumping into this project with 100% whole wheat bread.  What can I say?  I got excited!  I started by soaking half of the flour in an equal weight of water overnight, so it could hydrate.  This definitely helped; already I've noticed that the gluten strands aren't breaking as often as I usually notice with whole wheat dough.  I then mixed this mixture (cold, directly out of the fridge, another mistake) with the remainder of the ingredients, all at room temperature except for the water, which was about 80 degrees F.  I kneaded this for 4 minutes, let rest for 7, kneaded for 4, let rest for 8, and kneaded for another 4.  I really intended for all those times to be longer, but I got tired (my counter is about 7 inches too tall for me, and if you've ever kneaded 100% whole wheat dough, you'll know that it takes quite a bit of effort) and impatient.  It is now rising for 3 hours, next to the wood stove (probably 85 degrees F).  It's been 2.5 hours.  Though the texture has changed quite drastically, it still hasn't risen all that much.  I'll probably turn it after another half hour, and give it another hour after that to rise.  We'll see what happens...